By Pender Bauhan

Anya Taylor Joy. Photo credit: Embajada de EEUU en la Argentina via Wikimedia Commons.

The new limited series from Netflix, The Queen’s Gambit, follows fictional chess prodigy Beth Harmon, played by Anya Taylor Joy, as she dominates the chess world. It’s based on the 1983 novel of the same name by Walter Travis. The series had a record-breaking viewership of 62 million household viewers in the first 28 days of its release.

My mother Audrey Bauhan and I binged the show in a week. Netflix’s seven episodes had both of us hooked from the beginning. Whether it be the scene compositions, the costume selections, or simply the gripping plot, we were both left begging for more by the end. “Everything about it is gorgeous,” my mother exclaimed, “from the mid-century costume and set design to the dramatic chess move sequences in Beth Harmon’s mind. The entire show is a work of art.” 

The story is set during the 1950s and 1960s. After her mother’s death, Harmon grows up in a dysfunctional all-girls orphanage. It is obvious from the beginning that Harmon is different. She has a type of determination that distinguishes her from the other children around her. While in the orphanage, she befriends the janitor, William Shaibel, played by Bill Camp, who helps her discover her gift for chess. Each day, she visits Shabel in the orphanage’s basement to learn the game. They spend countless hours training. She also develops a dependence on tranquilizers. The orphanage gives the children these green pills to control their behaviors and make them sleep. For Harmon, though, the drug enhances her thinking and chess-playing skills. This drug-induced trance allows her to more easily imagine the game. 

Photo credit: Giannsartori from Pixabay.

Eventually, she is adopted while in high school. She is mostly raised by a woman with an alcoholic tendency, Alma Wheatly, played by Marrielle Heller. Wheatley soon recognizes Harmon’s talent and takes advantage of the income opportunity. Together they travel to various places around the country, and to Mexico, where Harmon continuously defeats all other players in chess tournaments and brings in a healthy income for her mother and herself. Harmon’s goal is to beat Russian champion and master player Vasily Borgov, played by Marcin Dorocinski. She trains with different players she meets at the tournaments and prepares for her ultimate challenge, playing Borgov in Moscow, at the end of the series. 

I refuse to spoil the ending, so I will no further discuss the plot, but The Queen’s Gambit draws one into the intriguing life of Harmon on her journey as she experiences victory and defeat in chess, as well as drugs, alcohol, love, and relationships. 

Although the plot is enthralling, what kept me watching were the outfits. Queen’s Gambit’s costume designer is Gabriele Binder. In an interview with Vogue, Binder says how his “role is always to connect back to the story through clothes, and the initial brief is, of course, the script.” 1960s clothing is what I believe to be the peak of fashion. According to fashion blogger Karina Reddy, this was a time of “rejection,” “revolution,” “new style”, and “[new] culture.” Harmon embodies it all. Each outfit she wears outdoes the previous one. 

My favorite is in the final episode. Harmon dons a white hat, jacket, pants, shoes, gloves with the faint lining of a black under-cloth. This exquisite look defines the time. It’s slick and draws the eye. The 1960s were a time of music, art and activism. Along with the snow-white costume, Harmon wore mini-skirts and showed her skin. She wore tailored clothing. These looks add to the changing times as they contrast the flowy, long, conservative outfits of the 1940s and early 1950s.  

Another one of my favorites are her iconic short skirt, striped shirt, and big round glasses. Harmon wears this while in conversation with one of her dear friends and competitor Benny Watts (Thomas Brodie-Sangster). The mini-skirt came into fashion during the 1960s. Prior to this time, women wore long skirts and showed very little skin. Harmon plays her role in the fashion revolution, as Vogue magazine refers to this particular outfit at the 1960s counterculture influence. Furthermore, this outfit signifies her defiance of women’s oppression, a theme that underscores most of the show. Her strength and independence appears most when Harmon dominates every chess competition. She is one of the few female chess players in the show, yet she dominates the male chess world, outwitting almost every competitor. She is a role model for many young women around the world with her intelligence. She travels the world, dresses impeccably, and defies the stereotypes about women during this era. 

Beth Harmon is an inspiration. The Queen’s Gambit prompted me to download an online chess game to see if I could sharpen my skills. A large part of the reason why Harmon is so motivational is that she exudes unwavering courage and independence. I hope Harmon inspires other young women as well.