By Nina Zeballos

As I slid open the balcony door, I was immediately hit with a wave of warm air. Little pieces of my hair danced wildly as I took a much needed breath of relief. The air was thin and refreshing, and in the faint distance, I could hear the sound of slight waves brushing the shore of the beach. I finally opened my eyes and took in the view. I could see an intimidating cliff to my far left lined with trees. The water was a transparent midnight blue, and the sand more tan than yellow. The view was stunning.

After a grueling week of exams this past May, my family embarked on a vacation to Corfu, Greece. Because of the pandemic, we didn’t get many chances to travel. Despite it being over a year since the COVID-19 outbreak, there were still many restrictions surrounding our international travel. Exactly two weeks before we had to fly, my sisters Lili (‘23) and Bella Zeballos (‘21) and I got our second COVID-19 vaccinations. The day before we left, my brother, Nico Zeballos (‘25), got a COVID-19 test because, at the time, he was too young to get his vaccinations. We needed proof of vaccination or proof of a negative coronavirus test administered to fly to and within Europe. 

Snorkeling around Corfu. Photo credit: Nina Zeballos.

On June 5, we were set to fly from Richmond to Washington, DC, to Munich, Germany, and finally to arrive in Corfu, Greece on June 6. However, our flight to Munich was delayed, so we were rerouted to Paris, France, where we almost missed our flight to Corfu. France has different policies than Germany and Greece on requirements for travel during the coronavirus, so we were subjected to COVID-19 tests in the Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport also. After barely making our flight to Corfu, we finally arrived on the island on June 6. 

It was around 10 p.m. when we landed and made it to the property where we were staying. Masks were not required, because everyone was temperature checked upon arrival and had either their COVID-19 vaccinations or negative COVID-19 tests. 

Exploring the island by car. Photo credit: Nina Zeballos.

Corfu has a long and fascinating history, in many ways separate from the rest of Greece. Contrary to the rest of country, the Ottoman Empire never gained control of Corfu. Therefore, the island culture developed more in line with the Western world rather than the Levantine world, with the main influences coming from the French, the British, and the Venetians. The population of Corfu is approximately 102,000 people. The island’s main economic source is tourism, and it encompasses a total of approximately 223 square miles.

The day after our arrival, we took a charter out on the water with some locals; we got to tour the whole island and visited multiple secret coves to swim.

To begin with, our tour guides took us to a cove where we swam and searched for seashells. We dove head first into the crystal clear water. The water surprised all of us, but after a couple of seconds adjusting, it became a refreshingly cool temperature which contrasted the warm air engulfing us. My sisters and I scoured the shore, which was covered with beautiful seashells. After exhausting ourselves, we stretched out on the padded area in the front of the boat, baking in the sun. 

Corfu’s Canal D’Amour. Photo credit: Bella Zeballos.

We ate lunch at a quaint restaurant off in a private bay, docking the boat in front of the restaurant and using the sea access. The food was delectable. We ate a mixture of seafood and classic Greek dishes. Every bite was bursting with flavorful combinations that I had never experienced before. The family that owned the restaurant was friendly, and we made our way back to our residence after a long day exploring the beautiful island. 

A few days after our boat tour, we explored the island by car, which might have been one of the scariest experiences in my life. My parents rented a couple of tiny blue Fiats to drive around. Despite the small size of the cars, the roads seemed immensely smaller. Where there should have been a two-way street, there was a steeply inclined road not even wide enough for one car. After almost driving off the sides of vast mountains multiple times, we arrived at our first site, Paleokastritsa Beach, a breathtaking crescent bay. The shore was lined with colorful umbrellas ranging from aquamarine to maroon. Lackadaisically lounging on colorful towels and chairs, locals embraced the sun’s warmth, while others went snorkeling in the clear turquoise waters.   

The fortress of Corfu Town. Photo credit: Nina Zeballos.

We then braved the roads once again in order to visit Canal D’Amour, where we witnessed local daredevils cliff jump from heights as tall as 40 feet. We drove up and down the sides of mountains, where we were provided with optimal angles to view the terrain. We stopped numerous times to survey the sparkling crystal water and vibrant landscape. After observing the beautiful geography, we visited Old Corfu Town.

We explored the streets of Old Corfu Town and studied the history of Corfu. The fortress of Corfu Town surrounds the edge of the island where the town was located. In the sixth century, invaders destroyed Old Corfu Town. Survivors rebuilt the town in a safer location, where we visited, and included a fortress. Ancient structures line the ports and the land. In the middle of the town stands a statue of Ioannis Kapodistrias, a famed Greek statesman from the 18th and 19th centuries who fought for Greek independence. Kapodistrias was born in Corfu in 1776 and became the first head of state of Greece. He was an immensely influential figure in the history of Corfu.

Greek bookshop. Photo credit: Nina Zeballos.

The streets of Old Corfu Town were lined with clothing shops, souvenir shops, cafes, and restaurants. As I wandered through the cobblestone alleyways, I couldn’t help but search for one specific thing. We made our way through the different avenues and shops, picking up the occasional evil eye souvenir or piece of clothing.

We rounded one corner, and there it was; the bookstore I had been searching for. Immediately advancing towards the store, I noted the scenery. Outside, there was a bar lining the window with locals reading and drinking coffee. Pots of plants surrounded the entryway and sunlight streamed through the break in between the buildings. As I entered, the all-encompassing smell of a new book engulfed me. I knew I wanted to take home a special addition to my ever-growing collection of books. Unfortunately, the store did not carry my all-time favorite book, Pride and Prejudice, but I was still able to get the Greek version of Jane Eyre, another favorite of mine. The owner was a kind woman in her early thirties. We had a meaningful conversation about books and their importance in society. Not only did I leave the shop with a beautiful Greek copy of one of my favorite books, but I left with a new perspective on the world we live in.

My mother, Ericka Zeballos, describes our day: “I loved driving our rental cars through the little towns on the island. I especially loved the local restaurant we ate delicious seafood at, on the rocky beach looking out at the beautiful blue water and the mountains of Albania.”

Lunch at a restaurant on the water. Photo credit: Nina Zeballos.

On June 13, we departed from the island, heading home. This experience was one I will never forget, and I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to explore a new place and become immersed in its culture. According to Bella, “Everything was beautiful; the ocean, the food, the handmade souvenirs. But it’s the intangible things that make or break a trip, and the people of the island of Corfu made sure that our memories were more valuable than anything we took home in our suitcases.”