By Anna Armstrong
Have you ever wondered if we are living in a simulation? Prior to December 2019, I would have scoffed at this question. I am a reasonable person, but something about the 13-hour plane ride from Washington Dulles International Airport to the Dubai International Airport can make you feel like you have been transported into a new dimension. The city has the sterility of a hospital ward, accompanied by an unexpected quietness that juxtaposes the fast-paced life circulating before my eyes as our taxi weaved through the skyscrapers towards the Jumeira 2 district. Here my family and I would be spending our layover before departing for a family trip to Kenya the following day. We faced the immense task of maximizing our visit within a restricted 24-hour time period.
Dubai, the largest city in the United Arabs Emirates, has a population of around 2.9 million people. However, a majority of the population includes 89 percent of the UAE’s expatriates, meaning that only 11 percent of the city’s residents are legal citizens of Dubai. According to the United Arab Emirates’ Government Portal, deportation of ex-pats can be “required for the sake of public interest, public security, public morals or public health, or if that foreigner does not have an apparent means of living.” This order explains the lack of litter, crime, disease, elderly, and unemployment in Dubai. These standards are tightly upheld by the ruler of Dubai’s authoritarian government, Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.
This modern hub, which today doesn’t have a building constructed before the 1960s, sits on the Persian Gulf, which influenced the city’s humble beginnings as a fishing village during the 18th century. Later growth stemmed from the introduction of the pearl-diving industry, as well as trade ports used to transport goods further east towards India and Persia. The city’s wealth escalated later in the 20th century as Dubai began to exploit its oil surplus. However, even today, the city remains mostly centered around its trade economy, which is enhanced by its free trade zone policy. It wasn’t until the 1990s that Dubai gained traction as a destination for tourists with its sunny weather and top-notch resorts.
Upon my arrival at our hotel, my vision filled with the image of a picturesque beach. The snow-white sand fed into the vast, ripple-less body of water so blue and still it seamlessly merged with the vibrant sky above that failed to hold a single cloud. However, these practically perfect beach conditions were met again with the eerie silence of the city. The array of beach chairs were as desolate as a scene from a western ghost town. Stacks of towels remained untouched. My footprints were the only ones that dared to disturb this perfect scene. Just three days before Christmas, I felt as though I was the only guest here.
Before the subtle sci-fi ambiance could consume me, I joined my family in a car tour around the mysterious city. We whizzed by one five-star hotel after another until we arrived at our first destination, the Palm Jumeirah. This artificial island in the shape of a palm tree was built in 2001 just off the shore of Dubai and is home to much of the United Arab Emirates’ prestige. We stopped at a widely acclaimed restaurant at the One&Only resort.
While arriving at the One&Only we found mostly vacant tables, excluding another family of possibly paid actors to increase the credibility of this simulation. I spent the majority of lunch daydreaming off into the vast Dubai skyline as I fought off the inevitable jet lag of the nine-hour time change that was beginning to set in.
After lunch, we set out to visit the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, which stands over 2,700 feet. Compared to the crowds at the Empire State Building, this tourist attraction was nearly empty. The building itself was impressive, but the realistic quality of this simulation was disappointing with its lack of crowds.
As we arrived at our next destination, a Muslim mosque, speakers across the city announced the time for prayer. My family was quickly rushed to change into traditional prayer clothes. My overeager father rushed into his robe, not realizing it was not built for the American male physique. He more resembled an inflatable tube dancer from a car dealership, and claimed, understatedly, that “it was a little tight.” Horrified, our guide decided that traditional prayer gowns would henceforth be optional for our family. However, after visiting the mosque, my mother said, “the house of worship provided us with a new cultural perspective on our visit to Dubai.”
Our final stop on the tour was in Old Dubai, which has been a trading hub of spices, gold, and textiles for almost a century. Here we were able to try chocolate made with the milk of a camel, a traditional cold remedy called crystal menthol, and observe the world’s largest gold ring.
By the time dinner rolled around, I begged my parents to bring me back a to-go bag from Nusr-Et Steakhouse owned by the infamous Salt Bae. I ate my overpriced burger from the comfort of my hotel pull-out couch. Dubai in twenty-four hours had managed to wear me out. If this day truly was a simulation, I would gladly be a player in this Dubai game again.
Anna, I thoroughly enjoyed this account of your brief visit to Dubai. I loved all the details that you included and the flair with which you described your experience. I can imagine myself having similar thoughts and questions upon traveling to such a place. ~ Mr. Becker