By Taylor Domson

Libbie & Grove—a Richmond hotspot swarming with restaurants, clothing stores, and local cafés. Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint, the Continental, Beijing on Grove, and TASTE Unlimited all advertise a wide variety of eating options, from comfort food and classic Chinese cuisine to gourmet grab-and-go sandwiches. On Friday afternoons, students from St. Christopher’s, St. Catherine’s, and St. Bridget’s schools all flock to Gelati Celesti and 7/11 for ice cream sandwiches and Slurpees. Friends gather at Cameo Cakery & Café and Stella’s Market to sip on coffee and dish out drama. Even on weeknights, the street corner is the place to be.

Spread of queso blanco, salsa, and tomatillo with blue tortilla chips.

In wake of Café Caturra’s closing at the famous intersection, locals have speculated as to the property’s replacement for over two years. Millennials sought a new, classy bar space, and couples scanned the area for the perfect date night spot. Cocodrilo opened on March 8—a local restaurant where “Latin American dishes and chef-driven menus mix and mingle,” according to their website.

As a native of the Libbie & Grove area, my childhood features fond memories of the corner’s local cuisine—burgers, submarine sandwiches, and ice cream cones. It was a middle school student’s dream. As I’ve matured, however, I’ve taken interest in the new restaurants that offer versatile flavors and cultural diversity to my palette. I frequent Stella’s Market in search of their seasoned chicken kabobs, rice pilaf, and pita bread. I gravitate towards Grit Café for espresso and iced lattés. And so, when Cocodrilo finally opened its doors for Latin cuisine, I knew I had to investigate the new restaurant.

Cocodrilo’s menu is relatively sparse in its options. It presents the normal dish categories, yet each group includes about three options. Despite such a limited menu, I looked towards the descriptions of each dish, staring especially longingly at the queso blanco and the chimichurri potatoes appetizers. The queso would serve as the quintessential Latin appetizer, while the potatoes would offer a different taste of culture in their aged Mexican cheese garnish and cured egg addition. I planned to order the latter appetizers, as well as 2-3 entrees and one dessert to share with my family of four.

However, when I sought to make a reservation for four, there were no available slots throughout the week. A new bustling restaurant already completely booked on a Wednesday night? A good sign, I thought. When my mother and I finally found the ideal time to storm the Cocodrilo bar and politely demand two seats, it was 5:00 p.m. sharp on a Sunday evening. Once again, we were unable to find any reservation openings, so we were resolved to experience Cocodrilo dining at the moment they opened.

Deconstructed pork shank tacos.

When we were kindly seated at the bar, I glanced at the surrounding paintings and interior decorations while my mother scanned the menu. After viewing the online menu prior to our arrival, I was eager to order the carnitas pork shank tacos and some churros to-go. Instead of viewing the menu, I stared at the statue reminiscent of a crocodile—“cocodrilo” in Spanish. At the foot of the restaurant’s large fireplace, the crocodile served as an interior centerpiece, accented by surrounding paintings and pointed light fixtures. Just as our server arrived, however, I noticed that some of the options featured on the online menu were absent on our paper-view menus. We ordered a side of fried plantains in place of the chimichurri potatoes appetizer. Luckily, the remainder of our planned dishes were available.

First arrived a boat of blue corn tortilla chips, complimented by a trio of sauces—red salsa, green tomatillo, and the featured star: queso blanco. I rushed for the queso first, hastily dipping a chip into the cheesy sauce. I smiled in appreciation after the first crunch. The queso featured rich, aged cheeses, ample flavor, and a surprising kick of spice that ultimately pushed my chips in its direction. The green tomatillo offered a mild foil to the spicy queso perfection, serving a refreshing flavor in its avocado and cilantro accents. Lastly, I took a taste of the salsa. My taste test came to an unfortunate conclusion in the salsa’s bland taste and slightly off-putting texture. Still, the salsa’s mediocre flavor could not dim the light of the queso’s great triumph.

The breadwinner of the meal: the plantains.

Next arrived the carnitas pork shank tacos, the much-awaited entree. I was quite surprised to see the tacos not garnished in coleslaw, cilantro, and guajillo sauce, but rather left deconstructed. My mother and I pulled the pork off of the bone, placed the meat in our respective corn tortillas, and garnished the meat with coleslaw, beans, and cipollini onions. Although I positively oozed pride at my taco construction, I might have enjoyed the meal more without the unnecessary mess of juices on my fingers. After such labor to form my taco, my tortilla broke after my first bite. Its stiff composition proved an unlikely bed for the meats, which leaked from the breaking tortilla. With fingers yet again covered in sauce, I scanned my taste buds for any bright flavors or accents of spice. The meat was cooked quite well, yet the taco’s accompanying sauces lacked the flavor I assumed they’d proffer. Indeed, the taco undoubtedly needed a sprinkle of salt.

With high expectations, I turned towards the plantains. Fried to perfection, I placed one of the plump fruits onto my plate. I sliced my fork through its center and looked upon the soft yellow interior with excitement. The plantains were the absolute highlight of the meal, offering a sweet tanginess that beautifully contrasted the mild, savory sauce drizzled atop the fruits. I cherished each bite, sinking into the heady combination of savory and sweet flavors. After just two plantains, however, my stomach screamed its protest to any more food. I placed the remaining plantains across the table to avoid any ill-advised decisions.

Bag of churros—coated in cinnamon sugar and accompanied by a to-go box of chocolate sauce.

Still, the meal was not over. As my mom requested the check, she added a bag of churros to our final order. The dessert was prepared promptly, and I clutched the bag containing circular churros and a cup of hot fudge with care. I couldn’t wait to arrive home to dive into the delectable bites. I ate one of the churro rings without even consulting the chocolate fudge; the cinnamon sugar was perfectly adequate. The churro offered a crunchy, sugary exterior and a soft, gooey interior—my mom’s definition of “really good.” After arriving home, I dipped another churro ring into the hot fudge. The decadent chocolate sauce complimented the light churro with rich, warm ease, yet the chocolate slightly drowned the cinnamon taste. I could muster no complaint, however, as I attempted to politely consume the agent of sugary delight with a smile on my face.

After the meal officially ended, it was clear: Cocodrilo was satisfactory. The meal was a pleasant venture, even when it required work. The food was pleasant, even when tortillas cracked and salsa lacked flavor. The fledgling restaurant can evidently improve many facets of its menu, but it holistically offers a lively eating experience for the customer. Although I have specific suggestions concerning their menu organization and dish presentation, I foresee a prosperous future for Cocodrilo.

All photo by Taylor Domson.