By Izzy Lee

Sitting around the Los Panchos’ table.

Across from what many local high students would call their “home away from,” El Caporal, stands their newest competition. El Caporal is a place where teenagers go strictly for the atmosphere. You simply cannot go into the restaurant without seeing a familiar face. Children and adults choose El Caporal after sports games, school events, or as creatures of habit. The environment is supported by a friendly staff who knows how to properly celebrate a birthday or, in my case, a LIS (League of Independent Schools) Championship. Immediately after sitting down at the table, you ignore the menu at hand and order the usual. El Caporal is a place of familiarity: the staff, the food, the scent that follows you after exiting, and the people you go with each time. And, after every time you leave, you can already predict the next time you will return. 

Los Panchos appeared on Parham Road during the winter of 2022 with pre-set low expectations compared to its basic, yet safe, neighbor. After our school event of choice, a Collegiate basketball game, my friends and I decided to give Los Panchos an extensive trial. Although we may have entered at what was probably not their peak hour, we were greeted by an amiable staff. My friends and I were promptly seated and handed menus, even though it was 9:30 p.m. and there were no other customers were in sight.  

Overwhelmed is the word I would use to describe our reactions to opening the menu. Countless pages were filled with endless options of Mexican-styled food. If you wish for a specific meal but with a different protein, it’s almost guaranteed they can accommodate. Soon after receiving the menu, we placed our drink orders and an order of queso and guacamole to go along with our chips. 

The chips and salsa came out first and were a great start to the meal. The chips were warm and had a satisfying crunch with each bite, and the salsa was cold, with the perfect amount of cilantro. The saltiness of the chips called for refreshments, but the waiters were slow to deliver on that necessity.

Arroz Con Pollo.

Before our thirst could affect the rest of the review, the waiters brought our drinks to the table 15 minutes later, along with the queso and the guacamole. After quenching our thirst, we were pleasantly surprised with the queso, as it came hot out of the kitchen and was not heavy enough to fill us up. The guacamole was made fresh to order but could strike some diners as having too much lime juice.

Similar to our choices at El Caporal, my friends ordered the arroz con pollo and a cheese quesadilla with a side of rice and beans. I, however, decided to try the birria tacos and order a side of street corn for the table. 

While waiting for our main meals to come out, we looked around the restaurant. The emptiness as we approached closing allowed us to see the raw concept of the space. The restaurant looks much smaller upon entering, but as you go further into the space, you see the potential of a crowded but controlled environment. The distinct architecture and textured designs on the walls allow you to experience a different culture as you dine. 

The service when getting our main dishes improved compared to when ordering our drinks. The plates were brought out swiftly all together and had an appetizing presentation. The personalized Los Panchos plates with crafted blue and floral patterns made the taste of the food match its display. The portion sizes felt ample and appeased our post-game hunger. 

Birria Tacos.

The arroz con pollo had the proper ratio of rice, chicken, and melted cheese and was comparable to similar dishes at other Mexican restaurants, including El Caporal. However, what differentiates their arroz con pollo from the others is its inclusion of vibrant peppers and onions, rather than the typical lettuce, tomato, and sour cream. These vegetables had a seamless integration into the dish and pleased all who enjoyed the meal.

So far, Los Panchos was one-for-one, and we assumed the cheese quesadilla would be another, as a restaurant could never alter the simplicity of the quesadilla. In spite of our preconceptions, the quesadilla was too greasy to the touch and had a staggering amount of cheese. It was hard to recover from this, but the perfect side of rice and beans helped

With that experience of a classic menu item, we weren’t too hopeful for the ornate birria tacos. These tacos were filled with melted mozzarella cheese, marinated beef, cilantro, and onions, and had a side of birria sauce. However, these tacos were delectable. The sauce was perfectly seasoned and helped saturate the dryness of the taco shell and the meat. The tacos had a side of lime to be squeezed over top and added the essential amount of zestiness to the bite.  

Friends outside of Los Panchos.

As for table sharing, the elote street corn was topped with a thin layer of mayonnaise, cotija cheese, and a vast amount of seasonings. For someone who has not had the opportunity to try this delicacy, the chile-lime powder overpowered the taste of the corn. My friends who have tried street corn say it was comparable, and the char on the corn amplified its flavor profile.

Exiting Los Panchos’ newest location, we could describe our experience as a cleaner and modern take on El Caporal. Although we may go back to our roots to feel a sense of nostalgia, we can definitely say we will visit Los Panchos again to escape the intimacy that comes with dining with everyone you know. 

All photos by Izzy Lee.