By June Evins 

New Orleans Historical Marker. Photo credit: Wikimedia user Spudgun67.

In spring 2021, Breeze Airways, a new low-cost airline, added direct flights from Richmond International Airport (RIC) to Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport (MSY) in New Orleans. It is now easier than ever to travel down to New Orleans and experience the best city in America.

The flight is 2 hours and 16 minutes long, and rates start at about $98 round trip, but every passenger pays an additional $20 per bag on Breeze, whether it’s checked or carried on.

Maybe it’s not the first place that comes to mind when you are thinking of destinations for a family vacation, but there are opportunities for everyone to “Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler!” (Let the good times roll!”). I spent eight years of my childhood living in New Orleans and return at least once a year to visit family and friends.

New Orleans is a mélange of cultures. Its Creole heritage describes the mix of French, Spanish, Caribbean, and West African influences in the architecture, art, food, and traditions. With the tropical climate, bayous, proximity to the Gulf of Mexico, and horticulture, this jewel of a hodgepodge has developed into its own splendor known as Creole, a ubiquitous term for many aspects of New Orleans culture. 

New Orleans is very much a city of districts and neighborhoods, all with great options for food and activities. Known as the city that “Care Forgot” it’s best not to care about your caloric intake while there if you want to have the optimal gastronomic experience.  

The French Quarter and Downtown 

The French Quarter. Photo credit: Wikimedia user Sami99tr. 

Beignets from Café Du Monde. Photo credit: Wikimedia user Pburka. 

Most visitors tend to flock to the French Quarter, the oldest neighborhood. The area is an aesthetic collage of colors, regions, periods, and textures that hugs the Mississippi River and smells of spicy delicacies and strong coffee roasting. The famous Café Du Monde has amazing beignets and coffee, but if you want to skip the line, I recommend grabbing a beignet on your way home at their location in the airport! Beignets are deep-fried squares of dough smothered in powdered sugar, and these pillowy treats are perfect to dunk into your coffee. But beware of the imminent powdered sugar mess.

The historic French Market. Photo credit: Jim Nix via Flickr.

The historic French Market, an open-air market dating back to 1791, is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily and offers great cafés, restaurants, shopping, and you can often find live jazz music to enjoy. If it’s a rainy day,  I recommend visiting the Audubon Aquarium, the Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium, or the National WWII museum, which happens to have a fabulous John Besh restaurant inside. 

Visit the clubs of nearby Frenchmen Street for the best selection of live music that the city has to offer. Unwind at The Spotted Cat or Snug Harbor to hear jazz or The Blue Nile for funk and blues. 

The Garden District

St. Charles Streetcar. Photo credit: Jim Strain via Flickr.

On a beautiful day, take the St. Charles Avenue streetcar over to the Garden District. While the historical green street cars run through Garden District and Uptown, there are also streetcar lines up Canal Street and downriver to the Bywater neighborhood. While the streetcar, like many things in NOLA, runs on its own schedule, it is an optimal way to view the city. 

Commander’s Palace. Photo credit: Tom Hilton via Flickr.

The Garden District is home to historic Greek revival mansions draped in the shade of live oaks. Visit Sucré to get the best macaroons and gelato. The Garden District is also home to my all-time favorite restaurant, the world-famous Commander’s Palace. This beautiful blue restaurant offers delicious Creole cuisine, and I recommend going for brunch and getting the turtle soup and the pecan pie. (Reservations are recommended, and there is a dress-code.) Superior Grill or Superior Seafood are other great dining options in the Garden District. For those who aren’t seafood lovers, the Grill offers Mexican dining with amazing nachos and tacos.

Uptown

Live Oak in Audubon Park. Photo credit: June Evins.

If you travel upstream on the Mississippi from the Garden District, you are Uptown. While considered a more residential area, it has a plethora of shops, restaurants, and places to visit, many of which are located in beautiful old homes. Tulane and Loyola Universities are also located next to each other in Uptown. 

Imagine if the commercial part of Richmond’s Cary Street in Carytown ran six miles long; in New Orleans, this is Magazine Street. Full of shops, restaurants, bars, and galleries, Magazine runs from the Lower Garden District to Uptown and offers anything you could want. For the classic crawfish polo shirt, head to Perlis. For women’s clothing, go to Jean Therapy, Hemline, or Azby’s. While shopping on Magazine, grab a coffee from PJ’s or French Truck Coffee. 

Dat Dog Freret Street. Photo credit: Infrogmation via Wikimedia Commons.

Uptown is a foodie’s oasis. The range of eccentric dishes and regional specialties proves the saying “your eyes are bigger than your stomach,” no matter the customer. Dat-Dog on Freret Street offers the funkiest hot dog selection you will ever come across, including “The Rougarou,” an alligator sausage loaded with grilled onions, creole mustard, tomatoes, barbecue sauce, and bacon, and the “Crawfish Special,” a crawfish sausage topped with crawfish étouffée. French bistro Le Crêpe Nanou has the best French onion soup and escargots, For the best shrimp o’boy’s in the city, visit Guy’s Po-Boys or Domilise’s, and for great Vietnamese, visit Mint. 

While parts of Uptown may look residential at first glance, the vibrant nightlife is plentiful throughout the entire city. Maple Leaf Bar provides live music nightly; you can expect “blues, funk, R&B, rock, zydeco, jazz, jam bands, and any combination thereof, and beyond.” For a larger venue, visit Tipitina’s on Tchoupitoulas. Both spots are magnets for renowned and underground artists. To find live music locations for any night of the week, visit Upper School English teacher and Match advisor (and former New Orleans resident) Vlastik Svab’s favorite local radio station, 90.7 WWOZ, for their “Livewire Music Calendar.”

The Roman Candy Man. Photo credit: June Evins.

During the day, visit Audubon Park to stroll along the magnificent live oaks and even climb on the Tree Of Life. While at the park, stop and get a treat from the Roman Candy Man. This taffy has been sold since 1915 and is an integral part of the community. 

Plum Street Sno-balls. Photo credit: Infrogmation via Flickr. 

Another delicacy that the Big Easy is known for is sno-balls, which are cups of shaved ice with flavored syrup. While many might tell you that Hansen’s Sno-Bliz is the place to go for sno-balls, I think that perhaps the most magical place on earth is Plum Street Sno-Balls. The Lem-Lime is a classic that is guaranteed to turn your tongue green, and they have the best wedding cake flavor in the entire city. I recommend trying condensed milk on top or getting multiple flavors to make your own new combo. 

When Should You Visit? 

Your trip to New Orleans can be made or broken by the time of year you go. The summers in the bayou are not ones for the weak; it is hot, humid, and a mosquito playground. If you have to go in the summer, try to stick to June. You don’t want to face the sweltering heat or risk entering peak hurricane season in August and September. 

Fall and early winter are the ideal times to visit. The weather is still warm, but it is quite pleasant as the humidity drops. 

Late winter and early spring bring unpredictable weather, but the upside to this time of year is Mardi Gras! The most exciting weekend to visit during Mardi Gras season is the weekend before Mardi Gras Day. Parades still happen throughout the entire season, which starts on January 6 (Epiphany, or Three Kings Day) and lasts through Ash Wednesday

In spring, there is plenty of rain, but the weather starts to warm up. Come in the spring to see Jazz Fest, a two-weekend music festival that celebrates New Orleans, food, music, and heritage, with both local and world-renowned artists. This year’s headliners include Lizzo, Dead & Company, The Lumineers, and Mumford and Sons. 

There are endless possibilities for what you can do in New Orleans. It is truly such a unique city that everyone should visit at least once. 

Featured image credit: June Evins.