By Mary Mason Ingold

Tucked away in the crevices of Southeast Europe lies a secret treasure. This hidden spot is centered north of Greece, east of Albania, west of Bulgaria, and south of Serbia. Many US citizens have never heard of North Macedonia, a distinct country located in the Balkan region. From their Yugoslav and communist history to their abundant monasteries and transparent waters, North Macedonia has existed since the ancient times and continues to amaze locals and tourists alike.

One of the most prominent historical events for North Macedonia is the influence of the Ottoman Empire, and the European countries that followed. The Ottomans, who ruled the region in the 14th century, developed necessities such as hospitals and improved technology in medicine, the military, and more. Originally named Macedonia, the region was ruled by the Ottoman Empire for five centuries. 

When the Ottoman rule came to an end, it left the nation to be claimed by the other countries around them: Greece, Bulgaria, and Serbia. After World War I, Serbia gained control over Macedonia, and with the rise of communism, it joined the League of Communists of Yugoslavia.

North Macedonia in relation to the rest of Europe. Image credit: Wikimedia Commons user TUBS.

The communist regimes that were spreading among Europe after the end of World War II would dictate Macedonia’s future. This was also an era that began celebrating nationalist ideas, which affected Macedonia’s self-perception as a nation.

After nearly 40 years, Yugoslavia began to break up after the fall of communist governments all over Eastern Europe in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Macedonia held a referendum for its inhabitants fighting for its independence and succeeded. On September 8, 1991, they separated from what remained of Yugoslavia, becoming the Republic of North Macedonia. 

There was dispute over their country’s name, especially with Greece. Many ethnic Greeks did not align themselves with the Macedonian culture they had influence over. They rejected the name being used for their specific Greek culture, resulting in North Macedonia’s new title. 

After announcing their independence, the nation designed their own flag and currency. Although they fought wars in the third and fourth centuries due to the Ottomans, their breakaway from Yugoslavia was peaceful, and the nation was generally not involved in the Balkan wars of the 1990s. . 

Despite all the regimes Macedonia has fallen under, they have continued to hold onto their personal identity, rooted in a mix of European cultures. From Italian-style architecture to Middle Eastern city markets, North Macedonia has a vast cultural palette.

After stumbling upon it online, I begged my parents to visit North Macedonia. The rich history and beauty impressed me, and I had never seen anything like it in Europe. After months of pleading my case, I was granted the opportunity to go in the summer of 2023 with my mother—and Collegiate’s Communications Project Manager—Louise Ingold. 

I first had an insane travel day. Gaining access to the town of Ohrid, our desired destination, was quite a challenge. We had two flights: one from Dulles Airport to Vienna, Austria, and then from Austria to Macedonia’s capital, Skopje. The combination of flights took a total of 24 hours. After landing in Skopje, we had to wait three hours for a bus at a run-down station, where it was impossible to take a nap after being sleep-deprived from traveling. The actual town of Skopje was interesting, filled with endless marketplaces and vendors. The Middle Eastern influence was evident, as the streets were filled with ceramic designs and mosaic sculptures. However, we were not able to spend much time there.  From the station, we took a three-hour bus ride up mountainous, angular roads, eventually landing in Ohrid.

A market street in Old Town, Skopje. This is typical of the streets in the capital, only usually much sunnier and crowded. Photo credit: Jason Drury via flickr.

The trickiest part from there was finding a cab driver to take us to our villa. The drivers were across the street from the Ohrid bus station at the local bar and seemed to be enjoying themselves more than working. Eventually, a polite gentleman took us to our villa, dropping us off in the middle of a busy market street. With all eyes on me and my mother, we lugged our suitcases up the cobblestone streets in the 90-degree heat. When we approached out house, we both were nonverbal and collapsed on the floor, sweating, fatigued, and out of breath. Nevertheless, we had arrived in the city.

Situated on Lake Ohrid, the town of Ohrid itself is one of the most beautiful sights I have ever visited. Everywhere I turned, churches appeared. They were located on hills, cliffs, and even isolated on tiny islands just off the shores of the lake. 

We were also able to visit ancient preserved landmarks such as the Bay of Bones, home of the first ancient Macedonian civilization. Being able to hear these snippets of history was such an immersive experience, and something I would have never learned about otherwise. The lake is “2 million years old, may be the most biodiverse lake of its size in the world,” and is one of the oldest in Europe, according to environmental journalist Richard Mertens. On Lake Ohrid, The natural spring “water the lake produces is so pure, you can drink from it. And many do,” according to the website “Macedonia for 91 Days.”

The Bay of Bones Museum, located just off the coast of Ohrid. Photo credit: Wikimedia Commons user Виолетова.

In the evenings, the markets and streets of Ohrid came to life, with several street vendors and jewelry stores open. Everywhere in town, live music from the streets was audible. Even well into the night when I was asleep, the comforting sounds of violins and horns were clear. Instead of being annoyed by them, I appreciated the joy that the Macedonians had for music. 

One day in particular that stuck with me was when we went on a day trip boat tour. We met other travel junkies from all over the world, including Switzerland, Australia, and the Netherlands. We conversed with our boat driver, who has been rooted in Ohrid for years. His family has inhabited the Balkan transboundary lake region for over 300 years, and he proudly discussed his lineage. Spending our day with all of them was eye-opening, and having a communal bond in a place we were so unfamiliar with was a cherishable experience.

The waters of Lake Ohrid, taken from the town of Ohrid’s highest point. Photo credit: Mary Mason Ingold.

One of the most memorable parts of the trip was having the ability to travel with my mother. Each day, we uncovered new beaches, grocery stores, coffee shops, and clothing stores for shopping. Just like me, she was amazed with her experience, and claimed that “things just kept getting better and better.” 

She ruminates on our trip often, especially when she cooks lunch. We adored the food so much over there that we brought it back to our home. Ingold remakes Mediterranean salads and delectable Ajvar sandwiches, a common food eaten in Ohrid. 

Ingold agreed that traveling with just the two of us was a rewarding experience and was “happy we could spend two weeks together and still like each other.” With all the hardships and beauty that we faced, it was impactful to have such an unforgettable experience together as mother and daughter. When asked what her favorite memory of the trip was, she replied, “just being with you.”